Outdoor Rock Climbing in the Lower Peninsula of Michigan, USA
Updated: Aug 8, 2023
There are a wide variety of rock climbing options in lower Michigan if you count indoor gyms, considering the major southern cities like Grand Rapids, Ann Arbor, and Detroit.
However, in regard to outdoor climbing, the options are far more limited. The topography of lower Michigan ("SoMi") doesn't allow for much serious rock formation at all. Lower Michigan is, in fact, very flat in its entirety -- the upper peninsula ("NoMi") is a different story.
Mountain Project details a few scattered routes in the Rockport area near Alpena, albeit I cannot personally attest to their quality... or even existence... as of yet, nor know anyone who can.
Beyond that, we are left with Grand Ledge. Grand Ledge sits on the Grand River as it passes through Oak Park just south of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Grand Ledge is a 40' sandstone rockface that runs along the river, providing cooler weather and a beautiful view as you climb. Lead climbing is not allowed, but top rope is permitted in certain spots on the wall. Bouldering is the main type of climbing done at Grand Ledge.
I found Grand Ledge's climbs to be a great outdoor experience! Grand Ledge was actually the first place I ever climbed outdoors -- both for bouldering and top roping. Personally, I had a little bit of a struggle actually finding the wall. Unlike most crags, you don't walk up to it; you walk down. When you arrive at Oak Park, you can park in the lot. There's usually plenty of room. Head to the Oak Park sign and keep walking past it into a grassy area. Keep walking until you see a fence. This fence runs along the parameter of the wall. Follow the fence either way and it will bring you to a staircase; there is one on both sides of the wall. Walk down and find yourself at the wall!
My biggest warnings about Grand Ledge are these:
It's dirty. Bring a brush if that's something in your climbing arsenal!
It can be very buggy. There are a few spiders too, which I am terribly afraid of. It made for good exposure therapy! There were times when I would stick my hand into a crevice, and I was able to feel who knows what crawling over my fingers. I often will highball boulder these routes considering the limited height, meaning my gut instinct to jerk my hand out of the wall will reward me with a big fall.
It can be very wet! Check the weather a few days up to when you plan on going. Even if it has been a day or two, the environment and its lack of much direct sunlight or heat as well as the porosity of sandstone means it stays wet for longer. It's possible to climb wet, as is it always, but I recommend just waiting for the rock to dry.
There are definitely chossy spots. Only once have I seen a loose rock marked; I attribute this to Grand Ledge's minimal traffic. I've marked one myself. Tip: If you are new to climbing and wondering how to "mark" a loose rock -- use chalk! I see many people draw Xs. Personally, I leave a handprint, like a caveman. As long as it's visible, climbers will understand.
However, Grand Ledge is a great spot considering its close vicinity to a major Michigan city, its beautiful riverfront location, its wide variety and difficulty of routes, and more. In addition, it's usually not too busy! Twice I've had the wall all to my own group. Other times I'll only see one or two other groups, and there is plenty of room on the wall that I won't even see them most of the time. Sometimes hikers will walk by, but they have always stayed out of the way. Some of them like to watch!
Another cool quality of Grand Ledge to look out for is its inscriptions. Because sandstone is so soft, it's easy to mark/write on it. You can see this all along the wall. Although what's already done is cool-looking, do not do this yourself! At the very least, you will get yelled at. It's very damaging to the wall. In fact, the softness of sandstone and how easily it's damaged is actually why top roping areas are regulated. As always, leave no trace and respect the environment and the rules of where you are climbing.
Even more, the wall is right near the town of Grand Ledge, a matter of just a few minutes' drive. Grand Ledge is small in both geography and population, but has several shops and very yummy places to eat. A climber's favorite is always going to be Toads, a friendly cafe with a warm atmosphere catering to outdoor hobbyists -- especially rock climbers. They even offer rock climbing gear for sale in their shop, from carabiners to rope to belay devices! The iconic "TOADS" sticker of their logo is actually on my climbing helmet! I will always hit Toads up when I'm in Grand Ledge, usually both before and after my climb. Their menu is extensive and everything I've had so far has been delicious. Check out their site below. This is not sponsored; I just strongly recommend you add it to your itinerary!
All in all, Grand Ledge is both a quaint town and a great rock climbing wall that can be completely climbed in a day. The climbs vary in difficulty, providing options for new and seasoned climbers alike to both have a great time. Just check the forecast before you go!
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